Another obedience lesson

[Joy]

I took Molly for another private lesson today (well I shared the session with a friend and then we are going to practise together).
One really inspiring thing was to see that Molly can do good heelwork. The trainer had demonstrated with her competition Collie and I said something like - 'Well, yeah, but he's a Collie", whereupon she took Molly's lead, revved her up with an excited voice and got her trotting along by her side looking really focused and full of impulsion. Obviously not as good as the Collie but much better than she does with me.
On my IMDT course (for pet dog training) we were told not to demonstrate with a client's dog because either it would be nervous about being handled by a stranger or it would do the action perfectly and the client would think the trainer just had a magic touch that was beyond them. Well, I must be a bit big-headed because seeing my trainer work Molly I thought, "I should be able to do that!'
Knowing it's me who has to change makes it easier, now I know I haven't got a 'faulty model' .

I've been trying to be calm during heelwork because when I've been exciting Molly has grabbed the lead and tugged. (Probably why our off-lead work is better.) The trainer told me to use that desire and to encourage her to tug the lead and jump around but also to train an instant leave. She knows this very well with tug toys so I think I should be able to transfer this to the lead. The idea is we then do some steps of close heelwork and then Molly is rewarded with another lead tugging session. During the heelwork I need to look straight ahead and keep talking in an excited voice (you don't lose any marks for this in rally or obedience in the beginner stages).

I'm also to practise getting a straight 'present' (dog sitting facing you) by doing lots of short ones - a couple of steps- with a treat in my hand and once I've called her I need to look down at the spot I want her to sit on. I need to stop practising sending Molly to heel after the present because if she sits crookedly (as she often does) and I ask her to straighten up, she thinks I want her to go to heel.

One piece of advice I wasn't sure about was to push Molly away when I want her in heel position and she's not close enough - not roughly, on the side of her head / neck - so that she will lean back into me. I don't know if I like the idea of this - have to ponder.

Our turns have improved and I got all my footwork correct, so that was a positive too.

 

[snowbunny]

It sounds good! I think you have to be careful on both sides of the instructor/owner partnership to have the instructor take the dog. For the reasons you've stated, the other one of the instructor not treating your dog well (obviously not a concern once you've built a level of trust with your instructor) but also, what if the instructor fails, too? They could look like a bit of an idiot
The only time someone else (other than J) has handled my dog has been Elaine Clark when doing some agility training on a holiday in France a couple of years ago. But that's totally hands-off, just to show us how the correct body language when running a course made it clear to the dog what obstacles they should be taking. That was a bit eye-opening!

Denise Fenzi talks about the trade-off between excitement and calmness and says so much of it is personal preference. She prefers her dogs to be a little closer to their self-control threshold when competing, because she likes the energy it gives them. The trade-off is that it makes them more likely to lose that self control. Other people like their dogs to be calmer and more contained, making them more precise, but the trade-off is that it tends not to look as exciting in the ring. Horses for courses.

One piece of advice I wasn't sure about was to push Molly away when I want her in heel position and she's not close enough - not roughly, on the side of her head / neck - so that she will lean back into me. I don't know if I like the idea of this - have to ponder.

I'm quite happy to use opposition reflexes if the dog is happy with it. I watched a video the other day of a trainer using it when teaching a chin rest. By applying pressure, the dog pushed back and almost immediately got the idea that moving his chin down earned him the reward. Of course, if the dog doesn't like being touched, it would be totally inappropriate. I can't say it's anything I've ever used myself, but I don't see an ethical problem with it.

 

[MaccieD]

On my IMDT course (for pet dog training) we were told not to demonstrate with a client's dog because either it would be nervous about being handled by a stranger or it would do the action perfectly and the client would think the trainer just had a magic touch that was beyond them.

I always find this interesting as many trainers I know frequently use client dog's to demonstrate a technique. I've attended various courses at different rescue centres and worked with dogs awaiting adoption in front of an audience without problems. You just spend a few minutes rewarding the dog for any attention/eye contact etc.
I only work 121 so I'm handling/working with the client's dog all the time and yes sometimes you have a dig that struggles with a behaviour, but if I have to try a different method it is probably safe to say that the owner would be really struggling

It's good to hear that you are feeling so positive about the training and the difference it is making to you and Molly

 

[Emily]

Sounds like really positive results with your heel work! Lovely that you've got something to work on ?

I need to stop practising sending Molly to heel after the present because if she sits crookedly (as she often does) and I ask her to straighten up, she thinks I want her to go to heel

Yes, I often have this issue too! Ella tries to 'finish left' when I straighten her up. My trainer said that we should always train the two parts of the recall separately. One is the 'come and sit in front' and the other is the 'finish' (left or right). Only once every 50 times we put both exercises together, just to make sure it still works ?

One piece of advice I wasn't sure about was to push Molly away when I want her in heel position and she's not close enough - not roughly, on the side of her head / neck - so that she will lean back into me. I don't know if I like the idea of this - have to ponder.

Hmm, I'm interested in this. I might give it a go but I do think Ella might see it as me starting a game ?. We do often start playing with a friendly shove ?. I've always taken a step away from Ella when she's drifted and it causes her to step back into heel.

 

[Joy]

I went for another lesson today - gosh the weeks roll past quickly.
Today we worked at off-lead competition-style heeling and the trainer wants me to stop looking down to check Molly's in place. She also says I cajole her into position to start and we worked on it becoming Molly's task to get into position on cue. To this end she had me show Molly the treat and then run off round the field. To get the treat Molly had to fall into proper heel position beside me. I seemed to do a lot more running than Molly did. The trainer told me to reward more frequently- as soon as Molly has done just a few steps of really accurate heeling.

We also worked at using a ring toy as a reward. We played a few seconds tug, then I was told to tuck it under my left arm and set off. Again as soon as Molly fell in beside me for a few steps she got the toy again. I was worrying about doing this as Molly immediately runs beside me if I have a toy but bounces up and down. The trainer told me just to keep briskly walking, looking straight ahead and leave Molly to figure out what she had to do to get the toy. To my surprise Molly did start heeling - and then I gave her the toy of course.

I can see we're making progress - though it feels hard- going sometimes.