Training vs managing emotions

I took Shadow into town this morning. I'm taking him "on the road" as far as our settling work is concerned, and this was our first outing to a car park to practice. Most shops are closed here on Sundays, so it was empty - although just as we rocked up, a father and his two young daughters also arrived, one on a bike. Typical.

Anyhow, I digress.

After our settling session, I thought I'd take Shadow for a walk around the back streets. It was pretty quiet, but this is completely novel for him; I can count the number of times he's been in this sort of situation on my fingers - more than likely without even starting my toes. What for most of you would be an everyday occurrence is something way, way out of his comfort zone. Knowing he'd find LLW difficult, I set off, trusty clicker in hand, marking him at a very high rate for walking nicely. But I slowly had a bit of a change of plan. He didn't need "training". I know we often say "the dog doesn't understand when they go to a different place", but that wasn't what was happening here. He understood perfectly what I was after. The issue wasn't with understanding, it was with arousal. This is something I talk about all the time, I know, but you know when sometimes you forget everything you know, and go back to what you used to do? Yeah, that was me this morning. I think we so often jump to "training" mode when that's not what's needed in a particular scenario. I would say that's extremely likely in the case of LAT and similar drills. We fall into a pattern of operant conditioning when the dog doesn't need that. What they need is to regain their focus, and that's about arousal rather than training. Yes, we need to proof the behaviours against different levels of distraction, but what we're really talking about is different levels of arousal. So it seems to me that the most important thing is actually teaching the dog to be calm in all those environments. The key isn't about retraining the behaviours in all the different situations, it's about teaching the dog to be able to think in those environments.
That has to be a shorter process than taking every single behaviour into every single situation and trying to teach it again. If you had, say, ten different behaviours and ten environments, it would mean doing it the traditional way, you'd have to retrain each behaviour a hundred times. Whereas if we can simply teach our dogs to be able to think in those environments, we're just dealing with the ten. And the more we teach the dog to think in arousal, and to lower that arousal, the more that skill will transfer. Not to mention that we'll be dealing with less frustration on both ends of the lead.

I need another puppy.
 
Well done Shadow :) I find this familiar. We like you don't very often take our dogs into town which is always busy. Before I started Hattie's PAT work I decided to take her our busy local town on a Saturday morning. I armed myself with cheese but I hardly used it, she walked beautifully on a slack lead to heel, ignored people, children and lots of dogs and hussle and bussle. We walked for around an hour, I stood outside shops, sat on benches, we walked round the market where there is a Pet stall with lots of tasty treats, she didn't budge an inch. I was emensley proud of her. But I remember a certain someone on TLF stating this behaviour was the behaviour of dogs that aren't exposed to these environments - rubbish I thought to myself. I haven't tried it with Charlie but I am pretty confident he would behave in the same way apart from the lots of dogs! He behaves beautifully around the lake in town where there are lots of dogs but just too many ducks o_O I wonder if we sometimes underestimate our dogs and what they really can deal with xx
 
I should also note that I'd done a similar thing earlier with Squidge and for her I was using the clicker a lot for training, and think that was the right thing to do in her case, because she was excited but not OTT and it was far more of a training thing. Shadow was just a bunch of edgy nervousness. Squidge is supremely confident and was making a lot of great decisions, and I was setting her up to be able to make them. A couple of times we did a little figure-8 to bring the arousal down, but then got on with rewarding her for being a star.

Arousal first, training second.
 
So... what's your plan going forward? Taking him into town again, and just allowing him time to sniff around the streets (on the lead, obviously), rather than trying to get him to walk nicely? That would certainly make sense to me.
 
Not really at this stage. The walk was a bit of a diversion from my plan :D
At this stage, all I want to be doing really is going and sitting on the floor in a very quiet unfamiliar place, letting him look around if he needs, but hopefully working towards him being happy to chill out. The same stuff as in the videos on his reactivity log. That starts with a perimeter sweep if it's appropriate, where there are no rules, but then we find a quiet space and just sit.
 

Joy

Location
East Sussex
Whereas if we can simply teach our dogs to be able to think in those environments, we're just dealing with the ten. And the more we teach the dog to think in arousal, and to lower that arousal, the more that skill will transfer.
This is interesting. So would you say that if a dog (who normally walks onlead without pulling) starts to pull somewhere new, that they need just to be stationary with their owner ( being fed?) until they feel calm /adjusted enough to walk?
 
I think it depends on the dog as to what helps them to calm down, but I would say if the pulling is the result of over-arousal, then, absolutely work on that arousal level instead of focussing on training the LLW through it. Once the arousal is lowered, then if the behaviour is strong enough, they will be able to perform it. For Shadow, standing still and feeding wouldn't work; it would make him more frustrated. But for some dogs, sure. The figure of eight might be a good tactic, or scatter feeding, or pattern games (such as orient to me), or something else they associate with being calm.

Once you have that, you can go onto reinforcing the behaviour in the new environment as I did with Squidge to build up that strong reinforcement history against all the competing reinforcers, but if your dog has completely lost the plot through arousal, I'd say that's where you need to start off.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Joy
Top