Maxx recall

Lab_adore

Moderator
Staff member
Here is a video (terrible quality sorry) showing how Maxx can switch on and off. We were interrupted by a jogger and that didn't help plus I was way too slow getting the treat to him as I was juggling the phone and my hand got caught in my jacket pocket

I'm going back to whistling only when I know he is engaged. This was the first time I did it when I knew he was distracted by a smell but I still hoped he might come running

Would appreciate your wise and wonderful thoughts

 

Cath

MLF Sales Coordinator
You blow different amounts of notes once 3 times, another times 4 times. It must be the same each time. It doesn't matter how many, but it must be the same or Maxx won't understand. I think you must start again with Maxx. Try watching below. Good luck you and Maxx can do this :hug:


 

Atemas

UK Tour Guide
I also wouldn’t whistle, then use your voice to call. You need to just whistle the once and give him the chance to respond.

To keep the whistle cue once established, I occasionally practice either in the house or garden. I do this at tea time when she’s hungry. I ask for a sit/stay, then hide and whistle. Secretly, I also do it to ’remind’ F of the peeps (he’ll be somewhere else in the house so a subliminal reminder 😉) as he shares the walks.

The power of sniffing is huge. I have watched Red from afar when I have whistled and seen the dilemma she faces - I can almost see the cogs in her brain deciding what to do.

He came nicely on your last whistle so perhaps make more a game between the two of you 😊
 
I would say it needs to be built up first. Practice at home and in the garden, then transfer to outside.

The other thing was making him sit first - I wouldn’t do that because are you rewarding the sit or the recall? He might get confused. I just reward Stanley for coming back, I dont care what position he is in when he does.

He’s so gorgeous and lovely though 🥰
 

Lab_adore

Moderator
Staff member
Good point Jen, I didn't think of that. I have to have the treat ready too so he knows exactly what he is being rewarded for. Maxx said 'awww shucks' about the gorgeous and lovely comment

Cath that video is awesome, thanks.

I have been doing whistle around the house and garden for a few weeks. He comes charging every time but yes I do need to build up to distractions, thanks Alison. I've decided to use 5 pips as I used to do that in our previous attempt using the Total Recall book.

I feel quite positive, thanks all
 
Glad that you`re feeling more positive now, bless you . Yes, start with a much shorter distance where there is less chance of distraction , just a few yards and then gradually increase the distance . I dont even blow the whistle until Reuben is actually coming towards me , that way he knows what it means and that he will be rewarded , keep it up my lovely , you will get there xx
 
I only echo what's been said. I'd do teeny tiny distances when you're moving from around the house to the big outdoors. He'll get there.

Why would the jogger decide it's OK to pass so close to a man & a dog? Bafffling.
 

Joy

Location
East Sussex
The video that Cath has posted takes you through the process of training recall step by step in a really clear way. I think the mistake some people make is to try to move on too quickly and use their recall signal in situations where the distractions are too hard. In the video point 3 talks about pairing the whistle with the sound and this really needs to be thoroughly established over a period of days. Then when you start to use it as an actual recall, only in the house over tiny distances.
In the meantime don't be tempted to use it out and about, or to 'test' it. Either keep Maxx on a trailing longline or go and get him instead of calling.
Whenever he does come to you (whether you've called or not) let him know you're delighted - food, jumping around, play etc! As Jen says above, when Maxx comes don't then ask for another behaviour - the recall is enough.
I would also think about building value in being with you - so when you go out, don't go for a meander, take a bag of toys and play, especially games like tug which involve being right next to you.

I think you do need to make a structured plan for how to train this (who is going to do what and when, every day), but if you can do this it will improve your lives enormously in a matter of a couple of months.
 
You may be interested in the FDSA recall class that starts on August 1. Fenzi Dog Sports Academy - FE240: Calling All Dogs
For $65, you get access to the course material for a year (or longer - if you take more classes or webinars during that year, you get another year from that date), the homework and discussion forums where you can follow along the people taking the course at the more expensive "hands-on" levels (super useful to see real people and their real dogs, how the teacher deals with their struggles etc), and access to a FB study group for the course.
 
Do we not recommend total recall anymore.. :giggl:
My biggest issue with that was that it was really impractical. First stages, great, but after that it was all too difficult. I like the approach Chrissi takes (although I've not done her course, I've heard her describe her method) and it's very much how I approach it - working on relationship and check-ins, building a range of reinforcement strategies.
 
I haven't watched the video recall video above yet. However, I would say that when Maxx does recall you are not very enthusiastic or sound pleased. When Maxx recalled to your OH and speed, I didn't see any body language of how pleased he was and you said 'you've taken your time time, sit' so where is the reward for coming back to that :happy: A very tasty treat, show how delighted you are. Call Maxx in the house for each mealtime, so that it becomes a conditioned reflex.
 
I just can't get other dogs/people to work with so we never proofed.
I think you can be a bit inventive. For example, if your dog is a super foodie and they can recall from a warm roast chicken on the ground, then they will probably be able to recall from most other things :D
So even though you can't necessarily find people/dogs, you can use other very high-level distractions that will help to proof the behaviour.

PS No, I've never tried to recall my dogs from a warm roast chicken, but I'm pretty sure I know how that would go.... ;)
 
I also found Total Recall too difficult to do on my own and actually took a recall class and it was a total game changer - I can call Quinn away from 99.9% of situations because I've kept up what I learned at that class. I echo what's been said about making yourself fun - when you build that, he will want to come to see what you are up to - I always have a ball, bag of various treats and do lots of recall throughout every walk that doesn't end in being leashed/ending fun - I send her back to what she was doing. I use my Quinn voice, which is super high and excited as well as reward with treats or a ball throw. One thing that always works is running - they will chase you and use your recall word and once he's moving. It's been said already I think, but don't set yourself up to fail - if you know he's doing something and won't respond, do not call him, go get him. You don't want to spoil your recall word/whistle. Always start easy - when he's looking at you or not super distracted and build up from there.
 

Emily_Babbelhund

Mama Red HOT Pepper
Here are my thoughts after watching the video...and this is coming from someone with serious recall issues. Serious. Recall. Issues. 😂

(1) Was Maxx supposed to go to you or your OH? Wasn't clear to me, probably not clear to Maxx.
(2) He's way, way, way too far away. And he's already distracted. Start when he's literally a metre away from you and probably on the point of checking in with you anyway. You can also use a long lead so that he has no choice but to come to you (I'm guilty of not doing this as I hate long leads).
(3) Calling him over and over and using different methods (various whistles, his name, kind of a cue word?) just makes it all noise to Maxx. That was 'blah blah blah, blah blah' to him. Teach the recall before you teach the cue, then use a consistent cue. Until he can do it stone cold, only use the cue when you'd bet $100 that he'll come back to you. It's hard not to keep saying "Here, here, here" - I'm VERY guilty of this when I panic, even though I know it's futile. But every time you say the cue when you know he's not going to come anyway, you are making it more and more meaningless. Set him up for success - only try for a recall when you're willing to bet that $100. Otherwise you are better off trudging after him, putting him on lead and trying another time when you can control the environment better.
(4) Treats should be in your hand as he's running toward you and smack into his mouth as he's skidding to a stop in front of you. Also for that long of a distance, major jackpot (multiple treats given one at a time).
(5) Make grabbing his collar part of the game so in an emergency you can grab ahold of him without startling him as soon as he gets to you.
(6) Vary on lead time and off lead time. So on lead for 2 minutes, then off for 5, then on for 1 then off for 3. Just an example but the idea is to make snapping on the lead random so it's not negative. You can also give him a treat every time you click on his lead. I don't know if this is proper doggie training, but Carbon sure does love to have his lead snapped to his collar because he knows that treat his coming. 😉
(7) You can reinforce your recall cue by using it before every meal. Ask Maxx to wait, put down his food, give the cue and he'll barrel towards you. This is a guide dog tip from @Boogie . 😊

Others please feel free to correct any of this that doesn't seem right. As I said, Carbon and I have serious recall issues, so I can't really preach from a point of success yet, can I? 🤪🐶
 
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