Bear's Teenage Training Log

[Natalie]

As regards the sniffing, if you have your own limited area to work in, I wonder if it would be worth spending the first ten minutes of each lesson just letting Bear sniff the whole patch very thoroughly.

I try and get there early and let him have as much time as possible sniffing the grass, but it's difficult to know exactly which spot we are going to be working on each week. As we leave the class he's still a sniff monster so Im not sure what amount of sniffing it would take to wear him out

I know some dogs pass the good Citizens Awards at young ages but Molly for one didn't get her bronze until she was two years old, but then passed silver and gold within the same year I think. I was a trainer for a GC Silver class for a while and I didn't like the pressure to get everyone through the test rather than focus on developing well-rounded dogs.

Yes, it does feel like the focus is on the tests , but at least with silver they feel a lot more like real life - so stopping to talk to someone and making sure your dog doesnt jump all over them. This is one of the hardest things for Bear.

This is a short extract from Fenzi's "Train the Dog in Front of You":

Thanks , I will buy it on kindle. I did buy the Fenzi terrible teenager course last year, but have only dipped in and out of it. I've also got Jane Ardern's Mission Control (how to train the high drive dog) which is quite good, and I bought the Jo Laurens 'focus' course too. (but a few bits of it annoy me like saying that some people with working gun dogs get a bit uppity about people having treat bags, so she shows how you can get a pot of sardines in your pocket to hide instead. Also she's update the content on food, and sounds a bit anti kibble now. Anyway, it's stlll a useful course)

Goals should be set for individual dogs, and they will be different than the dog next to them.

I'd like a bit more of this in class, I think - so in time I will be a bit more vocal when they as about what we want to practice more of.

They all have 2 working areas set out with poles. Blue is closer to each other and is their " working" station. Green pole is set further out and where they pop a chair and a mat at the beginning of the class. If they need time out to relax during the class or in between exercises they head to the green zone. It also signals to me that their dogs need a break.

This sounds a brilliant set up. We have cone to stand by, but I move away from that whenever I feel the need - fortunately I can usually move to the back, or the side. They tend to place us in a line which I think is a bit odd.

I've started to watch some of the course you sent through to me @Beanwood, thanks - we are a bit behind but I liked the short sharp videos.

 

[Natalie]

I really did not feel like going to training last night, but went anyway - and so glad I did. We had (another ) new trainer - one of the issues is that there is inconsistency with the trainer you have each week, so you don't get to build up a relationship with them and they don't get to know you either. However, the one we had last night, will, I hope be sticking with us for the next 5-6 weeks. It felt a lot more personalised, with her, and another trainee trainer, spending time with each one of us addressing individual issues. One of things we worked on was a 'safe' recall - ie, one which doesn't end up with Bear jumping up at me, and only then sitting. She suggested a targeted hand touch as he comes back to me, slightly stepping back or sideways if he's still barrelling in a bit uncontrolled, rewarding the nose touch, then putting him in a sit. I'd never of thought of it like that- I'm generally grateful he recalls, which in fairness, he mostly does, but I had almost accepted the jumping up bit as 'what he does'

 

[Beanwood]

I use "middle" with Otter. She has great spatial awareness, partly because we worked hard on "rear" awareness. Sometimes young dogs don't have as much control due to not quite developing enough rear awareness, Bramble was a classic example! With Otter it's more anxiousness, she runs up to me and then just keeps on going, she has actually run up the front and ended on my shoulders! Middle and a reinforcing hand cue given as she approaches helps this enormously.

 

[Beanwood]

Oh and another game uses a target post.

1. Otter learns to target post. ( I use electric fence posts..)

2. Target post 6 feet away, hand touch back to me and treat.

3. Rinse and repeat.

4. Move 12 feet away. Send to target then recall to hand touch.

By adding in an extra element, the cue to target post.. Otter has to think a bit more, thinking slows dogs down.

 

[Selina27]

targeted hand touch

I've found hand touch to be so good for me and Cassie, I use it in all sorts of circumstances. One of the most useful things I've done with her.
Great that you had a positive experience with the trainer last night, I really hope she stays around as promised.

 

[Atemas]

I've found hand touch to be so good for me and Cassie,

Me too, with Red

 

[Stacia]

Must try that!

 

[HAH]

Love hand touches with Kipper, and my beloved OH introduced them with my mum’s teenager Zorro like a bally genius; with him it helps slow him down to find the target, and makes a game of it to keep a bit of interest. Works a treat.

 

[Natalie]

I've noticed Bear's hand touch has gone a bit weak, (he's just started turning his nose towards my hand, not actually touching it ) so I've reintroduced a treat between my fingers for every other cue, just to keep it interesting for a while.

I like the idea of a target pole @Beanwood, I haven't done this before, is this worth training with a clicker, building up closeness, or just smear some cream cheese on it so he goes to it straight away? Or will I end up with a dog who licks poles?

 

[Natalie]

Otter has to think a bit more, thinking slows dogs down.

Love this - Bear doesn't think, just does!

 

[Beanwood]

I like the idea of a target pole @Beanwood, I haven't done this before, is this worth training with a clicker, building up closeness, or just smear some cream cheese on it so he goes to it straight away? Or will I end up with a dog who licks poles?

You could try a piece of mat /vet bed by the pole. When you have shaped " go to target" remove mat and see if he can work it out! I do use placeboards to shape this.

 

[Natalie]

You could try a piece of mat /vet bed by the pole. When you have shaped " go to target" remove mat and see if he can work it out! I do use placeboards to shape this.

Good idea, thanks.

 

[Beanwood]

This is River practising a more elegant recall!

I send her out to her place board, she waits for either a release cue, or another cue which in this instance is a hand touch

She is nearly as tall as Bramble, and going through a growth spurt which is why her back legs don't quite seem to belong right now! She targets my hand nicely and this helps her learn the best position to be in moving forward.

 

[Natalie]

That's very nice indeed @Beanwood , controlled and steady!