- Location
- Isle of Man
Well I was SO uncoordinated. This is tricky.
Practice - feels strange to start with. Red now knows I go out with treats in my right hand - that feels odd as I have the end of the lead in that hand too but I’m getting used to it ?.This is tricky.
Once you have the mechanics and are building muscle memory, you can drop the lure and feed afterwards, like you normally would. If you practice so that sometimes you turn and immediately treat from either your hand or your bag and sometimes take a few paces before you treat it's more like the real world where you may not be ready. You need to build your muscle memory as much as the dog needs to build theirsRed now knows I go out with treats in my right hand - that feels odd as I have the end of the lead in that hand too but I’m getting used to it ?.
So do you continue to run your hand down the lead? I'm dreadful at fading out a lure, but I'd really like to get this right!you can drop the lure and feed afterwards
I am too but it’s early days - I don’t intend to fade the lure until we have had a few more experiences of where Red would normally react.So do you continue to run your hand down the lead? I'm dreadful at fading out a lure, but I'd really like to get this right!
Yes, that is really the cue; it gives you the control you need to stop the dog lunging if you're a bit late and makes it very much a non-negotiable action. Not that you want to be dragging your dog, of course, and that's where the muscle memory comes in, but it's the one cue I have that I don't let the dog say "no".So do you continue to run your hand down the lead? I'm dreadful at fading out a lure, but I'd really like to get this right!
Absolutely, get the mechanics right!I am too but it’s early days - I don’t intend to fade the lure until we have had a few more experiences of where Red would normally react.
Yes that all makes good sense thank you ?.Absolutely, get the mechanics right!
Normally with our behaviours, we go about systematically proofing and as we make the environment more difficult, we can go back to using the lure for a rep or two, just to be clear to the dog. Obviously the scenarios where you might need the A2B are often out of our control, so having the handful of treats to use in case you have to deal with a "level 10" event before you've even proofed to "level 4" is a really good idea! But also, as you're practicing with the lower levels that you know she's not going to react to, you can start to fade.
It's a good idea to keep on practicing all the time, using random objects as your "trigger" to turn away from, because otherwise she might make the connection that the hand sliding down the lead means there's something in the environment to worry about if you only ever use it in scenarios where she would react. An added bonus of it, I find, is that it helps lead walking. It adds to your spontaneity, so the dog is more likely to want to stick with you, even if you're only doing it once every fifteen minutes.
Well I am @Charlie - she does seem to pick things up quickly but I know we have a lot of work ahead. My other walks this week have been very quiet - no other dogs about. It’s just so reassuring to know I have something I can positively use - it is very empowering and as they say ‘practice makes perfect’ so we will continue to practice.Wow Alison you must be thrilled to bits with Red's progress
I fixed it for youI think my title for this thread should now read ‘Really do know what to do’ ?.
Well now I have the mechanics and I know it’s working, I can focus more on making it more fun. Certainly our walk had become less fun - the day I got hurt really unnerved me (recovery takes so much longer as you get older ?) - she might only be a small Labrador - she’s 21kg - but those lunges were crazy. Having success makes confidence grow and she deserves fun ?.in this case the food and “game”, assuming you’re making it fun