Walking to heel - A technique with positive pressure

[Beanwood]

I have mentioned pressure and lead walking a couple of times in posts. This is the method I have used with Otter, and a similar system was introduced at gundog training at the weekend.

I will try and explain how this works and why.

Firstly, it is worth mentioning there are a few different ways of teaching lead walking, and even different styles of lead walking. This method works well if you are working with a shorter lead, and are aiming for more of a "heel walk" instead of a longer 6 foot lead, where you are just bumbling along using a sniff cue as when needed.

I used this training system with Otter, mainly because in her rehab from the get go she needed to walk closely, and very slowly next to me.

OK ...so when we are walking our dogs, who is in control? Well it's us. If the dog goes one way and we are keen to go the other, the "pressure" on the lead comes from us. Tugging, jerking the lead usually in combination with the owners hissing or growling is an aversive method of training lead walking. I see it all the time, with those dogs considered "stubborn" being subjected to a harsher version of the above. To the dog is looks like this: Pressure on the lead = Positive punishment. Pressure off the lead= Negative reinforcement (pressure of the lead is removed contingent on desirable behaviour in this case, not pulling)

Moving on. We have talked about "pressure being aversive". This was the last thing I wanted or needed for Otter. What was important though is that she didn't pull for all sorts of reasons, it wouldn't be good for her development, our relationship, certainly not helpful for her post op rehab. I would have to use some pressure though. We went about this by thinking of pressure as a positive reinforcement. Initially it was simply the teeniest pressure on her collar = treat. Then with her lead on. I held her lead gently and exerted the slightest pressure, just a hint of tension then gave a treat. In addition, every time I pop her slip head on, she gets a click then treat. Collar = treat, slight tension on lead/ collar = treat.

Taking this outside. With either a longish lead or short lead. The instant there was the slightest tension I gave a treat, but this wasn't initially contingent on her position, that came later. I did use the most boring part of our garden or driveway to avoid a more exciting distraction that may have resulted in lunging. The process evolved like this, slightest tension, I clicked, Otter turned to look at me (in natural response to the clicker or verbal cue...) then got a treat. Worth noting at this stage we don't actually go anywhere. Just ambling randomly in house, garden or driveway.

Second stage - Positioning. We simply move from tension on lead - click - look up, to treat being delivered at side. At this point what Otter was tending to do, was if there was tension, she would stop and look at me waiting for the treat, so it was quite simple to switch treat delivery to my left hip. This did create a treat bag mugging monster though! It was actually easier for me to move the treat bag to the other side, or have a stash of small treats in a pocket.

Walking to heel as described from last weekend gundog session - using a bit of pressure. This was very much on same principle as the method with Otter, in the fact that tension = positive reinforcement.

Start with dog on left. Shortish lead in right hand, so held across front of body, with the left hand, having a light touch on the lead. Essentially you are using your left hand as a guide. If you left hand moves forward the dog is too far ahead. Control is better the closer your dog is to your side. Think arm out-stretched, dog is at the end - you are off balance. In the exercises, we exerted a little tension on the lead (using our left hand) when the dog "sinks" into this - click and treat. Lots and lots of repetitions before moving to the reward being delivered in a heel position. Pressure always gentle, no tugging or jerking of the lead.

One Interesting observation. We started taking Otter out and about for walks on and off lead around mid - November, last year. In an ideal world of course this would have been much, much earlier. What I have noticed though, is clearly Otter is quite happy to meet and greet dogs on her lead, despite her limited exposure to dogs other than our own.

Phew! Hope this helps!

 

[SwampDonkey]

I may try this with the boys they are being a bit silly together.

 

[Boogie]

I keep my (right) hand with the treat in behind my back, then deliver every treat next to my left knee. The treats are in my pocket or bag on my right.

In the early days - lots of treats every few steps especially when I change direction. Now that he’s six months old - a treat every block or so. In challenging situations (passing children etc) back to a treat every few steps. To be certain there is no pressure on the lead from me I tuck my left hand, with the lead in it, into my belt. I use a treat which smells good right on his nose for very challenging situations. (for example men who click at the dog - it’s always men )

So far so good. His lead walking, even in busy town centres, is excellent.

 

[Joy]

Interesting to read - thank you. I think this is the same as Steve Mann describes as 'The Anti-Dog-Trainer Method of Loose Lead Walking' in his book 'Easy, Peasy, Puppy Squeezy'. I hadn't really understood how this could work but your explanation helps a lot. I imagine it must be essential to start in low distraction environments so that the treat is more valuable than anything the dog wants to get to - but I suppose that's true for any method. Obviously you know what you're doing and it's working well but I think the only problem with advising other people to use it would be my concern that it would turn into jerking or nagging.

 

[Selina27]

Well done putting all that down Kate @Beanwood for us. It's interesting and helpful .

 

[snowbunny]

I have to say I have read this a couple of times and I still don’t understand it! I’m obviously being dense, so maybe if you have time, I’d really appreciate a video?
I can understand the “giving in to leash pressure” part, which is pretty standard, but it almost sounds like you have constant pressure? Which is the part I can’t work out. I’m missing something somewhere, obviously

Anyway, a little confession/story: the other day I had had a really long day of stressful work. I was not in my most constructive frame of mind (understatement of the year) when I took the dogs out. Squidge has recently seen a cat under a car and has now decided that every parked car has a cat under it. She saw a lump of snow under this one car and started pulling like a demented thing towards it.
Because of my state of mind, I just put the brakes on to start: the old “be a tree” bollocks. Yes, it’s total BS, I know that, but when I had very little mental capacity, I fell back on my first learning, rubbish as it was.
I was frustrated, she was frustrated, it was horrible. It lasted about a minute before I gave myself a mental oopside-the-head and managed to pull myself into training mode. I threw a piece of kibble on the floor. She ate it and looked back at me. I marked and threw another piece on the floor, this time a little closer to the car. She ate it, turned back to me. I marked, and threw another piece, even closer still. Within five pieces of kibble, she was at that car, right up to the snow “cat”, without any leash tension or over-arousal, and zero frustration on either of our parts. There was no battle of wills or physical strength, just a simple process of thoughtfulness of how to deal with this particular thing. Next walk, I did the same, before she even fixated, and the next time it was a total non-event.
Compare that with me feeding her to her mouth: what would be the next behaviour after eating the treat? Would it be towards me or away. It pretty much has to be away... all I would be doing is distracting her from the thing she wants to get to. Whereas by throwing a treat on the floor, she has a very clear decision to reorient to me for the next piece of food, and that’s how she learns to turn away from the “thing”.

The point being, this isn’t how I taught her to walk by my side, but with Squidge, I have a far bigger toolbox of techniques to fall back on than I did with the twins (which is where the “don’t move, don’t let them pull you forwards” rubbish was instilled in me... because, haha, I don’t have a chance with this four-wheel drive dog!) which means I can look at the particular situation in front of me and pick out the appropriate “trick” for that minute.

So having a preferred technique of training your dog to walk with you is great, but having an array of techniques means that, when the excrement combines with the rotary air distribution device, you can choose something that fits your needs in that moment.

So, I’d love it if you could help this bear of little brain with a video, because I can’t “see” what you’re doing, and any new technique is another one for the toolbox!

 

[Emily]

I have to say I have read this a couple of times and I still don’t understand it! I’m obviously being dense, so maybe if you have time, I’d really appreciate a video?
I can understand the “giving in to leash pressure” part, which is pretty standard, but it almost sounds like you have constant pressure? Which is the part I can’t work out. I’m missing something somewhere, obviously

I'm really glad you wrote this as I felt the same but just assumed I was misunderstanding so moved on and left it!

My head can't seem to get around the reward for pressure. I get that we're trying to prevent the lead pressure from being an aversive but I'm struggling with the click and treat for pressure.

I can just imagine marking and rewarding pressure on the lead resulting in my lunatic throwing her full bodyweight into creating pressure on the lead. All the time.

 

[Shamas mom]

My two cents/ understanding is this:

With the leash on, each time you move away in another direction, it puts leash pressure. So if you are training to be leash-responsive, you pair that pressure with a treat, and you are rewarding the dog for following in the direction that you have exerted pressure. Using this method, the dog learns also, to pay attention to where you are going, because that pressure is rewarded when they join you in the direction that you wish to walk.

I used a similar method when training Shamas to a short leash, since I prefer a short leash when walking near roads. He is now relaxed on a short leash, because at my knee, he knows there's praise and re-enforcement.

 

[snowbunny]

With the leash on, each time you move away in another direction, it puts leash pressure. So if you are training to be leash-responsive, you pair that pressure with a treat, and you are rewarding the dog for following in the direction that you have exerted pressure. Using this method, the dog learns also, to pay attention to where you are going, because that pressure is rewarded when they join you in the direction that you wish to walk.

Yes, that part I understand, because it's a very common thing to do; I use it myself in the "A to B" ("about turn"/ "this way!") stuff with my lot already. It just sounds that there's a bit more to it with the technique @Beanwood is describing

 

[Charlie]

I read this yesterday and again this morning, I still don't understand I think a video would be helpful. @snowbunny I get your technique of throwing a treat on the ground for distraction with a lunging dog which I do but how do you teach lose lead heel? I have never really got this nailed properly with Charlie as he is in constant excitement mode. On the way home he is great xx

 

[Beanwood]

Interesting to read - thank you. I think this is the same as Steve Mann describes as 'The Anti-Dog-Trainer Method of Loose Lead Walking' in his book 'Easy, Peasy, Puppy Squeezy'.

Yes, this is a method described by Steven Mann in his book

 

[Beanwood]

can understand the “giving in to leash pressure” part, which is pretty standard, but it almost sounds like you have constant pressure? Which is the part I can’t work out. I’m missing something somewhere, obviously

No, not constant pressure. Otter gives in to light pressure then comes to my side for a treat, I continue to click and treat when in position, reinforcing the fact that she is in the right place. If that makes more sense? Obviously like all heel training, to start in areas of least distraction, and proof as you go along.

@snowbunny I get your technique of throwing a treat on the ground for distraction with a lunging dog which I do but how do you teach lose lead heel? I have never really got this nailed properly with Charlie as he is in constant excitement mode. On the way home he is great xx

With this (and I use Otter as an example...) At the beginning of a walk if I think she is going to be a bit crazy, then I have to manage this. I avoid this scenario where possible, as I don't really want her rehearsing behaviours such as lunging and pulling in excitement. I would take her in the car, and find somewhere she can be let of more or less from the boot. Or resort to harness with both attachments, then let her off as quickly as possible, but then, after some engagement games will have her back on a lead, then off, then on...tbh if I don't think she is going to manage on a lead then I take her out somewhere different where the distraction level is much, much lower.

 

[Boogie]

I think the ‘no chance to rehearse/practice’ the behaviours we don’t want is absolutely key.


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[Charlie]

I think the ‘no chance to rehearse/practice’ the behaviours we don’t want is absolutely key.

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Easier said than done. x

@Beanwood thanks for that. No chance at all of a low distraction area where we live in Scotland or in Hampshire. I'll keep at it xx

 

[Boogie]

Easier said than done. x

You don’t need to tell me that!

 

[Charlie]

Where we all live must be a big influence as it's not always easy to get to any low distraction areas. Is an urban area easier as you can practice around the streets? The country by nature is full of distractions. I use the techniques described by Kate and Fiona and hope that one day Charlie will walk at least most of the time on a loose lead. Who am I kidding!! xx

 

[Boogie]

It depends entirely on the dog and what pushes their buttons.

Echo is really easy to walk in the countryside. Today we walked quite a way before he was off lead - past dogs, birds, horses, sheep, squirrels - you name it, loose lead all the way.

Spencer wasn’t. Spencer simply adored all the smells and distractions of the countryside.

Echo is a people person so children running/playing/squealing and people (always men!) clicking at him etc etc are the things I have to really work on training for success - and being certain he doesn’t practice the behaviours I don’t want. (This often involves being very strict with clicky blokes! )
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