Evening all, am after some more advice please if that’s ok. I think I mentioned in a previous post that Neo is going through a ‘bark at everything’ phase at the moment and unfortunately things are not progressing well. After receiving some great advice on here previously I have been working with him on desensitising to some noises that I can predict and recreate like dogs barking on the tv, and this went really well to the point where he hardly reacts to this now which is great. The issue I have is with random noises like car doors or people talking in the street etc which make him bark. Once he has started barking, what is the best way to deal with it in that moment? Should I reassure him or ignore it? Most times I have to take him on a tour of the ground floor (he doesn’t go upstairs currently) to see there’s nothing going on before he will calm back down. He’s such a sensitive little chap and can get himself quite agitated and is then listening out for a while afterwards. I’m not sure why he has become so noise sensitive, for the first few months we had him I made a point of having windows and doors open all the time so he would be used to as many everyday sounds as possible and he was always fine with it. It’s only in the last month or so that he has gotten a lot worse. Any tips or advice would be great, he is currently enjoying a salmon and primula licky mat so I’m enjoying the peace and quiet while I can! Thanks.
What’s the best way to deal with barking?
- Thread starter Parodius
- Start date
Evening @Parodius ! Never hold back on asking questions here, there’s always someone keen to chat 
It’sa really interesting question (although I know fraught with stress in the reality too, there’s nothing like surprise barking to get an emotional response
). I read an article the other day making the excellent point that sometimes barking is entirely legitimate - when the dog is saying ‘look, there’s something odd out there!’ If there’s a stranger coming to the front door.
in other circumstances, I’d wonder if it’s possible to set up training opportunities - for example, car doors slamming; you could get someone to do this on cue so you’re ready to interrupt barking (with e.g. an ‘all okay!’, mark and reward quiet very quickly). But for unforeseen circumstances, all I can think is about lowering anxiety generally, which may not be very helpful. Other will have ideas I’m sure!
It’sa really interesting question (although I know fraught with stress in the reality too, there’s nothing like surprise barking to get an emotional response
). I read an article the other day making the excellent point that sometimes barking is entirely legitimate - when the dog is saying ‘look, there’s something odd out there!’ If there’s a stranger coming to the front door. in other circumstances, I’d wonder if it’s possible to set up training opportunities - for example, car doors slamming; you could get someone to do this on cue so you’re ready to interrupt barking (with e.g. an ‘all okay!’, mark and reward quiet very quickly). But for unforeseen circumstances, all I can think is about lowering anxiety generally, which may not be very helpful. Other will have ideas I’m sure!
Jacqui-S
Moderator
- Location
- Fife, Scotland
This is a tough one for me too. I guess I have come from the school of "behave normally and don't make a fuss" and your dog will gradually know that unusual noises are ok.
This may have worked ok for Lilly, but Oreo is a bit of a Barker.
As long as it isn't prolonged some alert barking is fine in my book.
Might it work to have a reward system for you? I know others have dealt with eg people knocking/ringing/visiting by having a space where the dog will go (crate?) When they hear the trigger noise (a knock or ring) And get a reward when they are quiet in that space.
I'm thinking if you allow a short alarm bark but then encourage him to go to a mat or crate or bed and then reward him? In the hope that if he hears a noise the default will be to go to his place and get a reward rather that keeping on with the bark.
I'm not good at training, nope, but just trying to use things I have heard that works for others in "similar " circumstances, using some artistic licence.
This may have worked ok for Lilly, but Oreo is a bit of a Barker.
As long as it isn't prolonged some alert barking is fine in my book.
Might it work to have a reward system for you? I know others have dealt with eg people knocking/ringing/visiting by having a space where the dog will go (crate?) When they hear the trigger noise (a knock or ring) And get a reward when they are quiet in that space.
I'm thinking if you allow a short alarm bark but then encourage him to go to a mat or crate or bed and then reward him? In the hope that if he hears a noise the default will be to go to his place and get a reward rather that keeping on with the bark.
I'm not good at training, nope, but just trying to use things I have heard that works for others in "similar " circumstances, using some artistic licence.
Atemas
UK Tour Guide
- Location
- North Cambridgeshire
Yes agree - Red alert barks and there’s always a reason……however - and I’m going to be controversial here as many won’t agree with what we do….but it works for us. We accept the alert bark but discourage anymore. So once she’s barked once to tell us she’s heard something we say ‘no barking’. She hears those words and she stops. Sometimes we praise her, sometimes we treat her but generally we just say it and carry on - like you @Jacqui-S, we are of the school ‘behave normally and don’t make a fuss’. She is very good and barks very little (unless it’s the snarling dogs at the back of us….but that’s another story which is being worked on).
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
@Atemas - I do exactly the same. I taught Maxx (with high value treats) that 'no barking' means he gets the treat if he stops barking. I too allow a bit of alert barking; after all if someone was trying to break in we want to know about it! But he teeters on the edge of barking at not much - someone walking down the footpath in front of our house talking a bit loudly will set him off. Now I don't even need treats, just a gentle 'no barking Maxx' and it works most of the time.
Thanks all for your ideas and suggestions. Like some have mentioned, I don’t necessarily mind alert barking up to a point, the problem I have is stopping him once he has started as he often gets himself quite worked up and ideally I want to interrupt him before he gets to that point and it’s proving to be quite challenging. In some of my efforts to help him I’ve even unintentionally made things worse - he started barking at reflections in the back door so I bought some temporary blinds to try. Unfortunately it freaked him out as the first time it was used OH just released the clips and it dropped suddenly and made a noise, not loud as only paper, but it spooked him to the point where he was trembling with his tail between his legs 
That was a few days ago, I’ve since tried re-introducing the blind positively which was going ok until he saw it from the other side of the door in the garden and it spooked him all over again. He is now very wary using the back door so I won’t be trying the blind again for a while. I’ve read that they have several fear phases whilst maturing, could this be the reason behind his quite extreme sensitivity at times? I really want to help him to feel safe and confident, particularly at home, but don’t seem to be doing a good job at it!
That was a few days ago, I’ve since tried re-introducing the blind positively which was going ok until he saw it from the other side of the door in the garden and it spooked him all over again. He is now very wary using the back door so I won’t be trying the blind again for a while. I’ve read that they have several fear phases whilst maturing, could this be the reason behind his quite extreme sensitivity at times? I really want to help him to feel safe and confident, particularly at home, but don’t seem to be doing a good job at it!
Candy
Biscuit Tin Guardian
- Location
- West Yorkshire, UK
Just to say that we can all have times when we feel that we're not doing a good job with our puppies/ dogs. You are though. The very fact that you're thinking about what you're doing and seeking advice shows that you care about your dog and want a happy and stress free life for him and that you're prepared to put work in to make that happen. You're doing a very good job, it just takes time, but I have no doubt that you'll get there.
Joy is now staring meaningfully and me and squeaking, which means that it's time for her walk. She has done a very good job with me!
Joy is now staring meaningfully and me and squeaking, which means that it's time for her walk. She has done a very good job with me!
Atemas
UK Tour Guide
- Location
- North Cambridgeshire
Yes I know Red went through a couple of fearful phases in adolescence. Even now at 5, she gets spooked by certain things - she doesn’t bark generally, she just looks for me and comes running. Often when out if something spooks her, she’ll come between my legs (middle). I taught her middle at a very early age and she will use it for many reasons but she knows it‘s her safe place
Try not to think that - although I understand cos I have always overthought everything - you are doing your very best and hopefully our combined experiences can help
- Location
- Herefordshire, UK
@pari don't have a lot of advice to add, but totally get that you want Neo to be a happy and confident dog. Which I am sure he will be!
He is still very young.
He is still very young.
- Location
- Andorra and Spain
My twins can alert bark when we're in Andorra, as we live in an apartment there and you can imagine that means a lot of strange noises in the building. I have had great success with giving them an unconditional treat scatter when it happens. I'm not rewarding the barking - they're not barking in order to get food, they're barking in response to a trigger, so it's not part of the reinforcement loop.
Basically, dogs bark, I say "scatter" (a cue they're already familiar with) and they run to me to snuffle up the treats that are on the floor. At first, I would have a bit of back-and-forth with them running to the door to bark and back for more treats, as they were still on alert. Over time, though, they stopped that and would stay for the food - I would keep doing little sprinkles until they came down from high alert. Eventually, they would let out a small woof and, without me even giving the scatter cue, would run to me for their sprinkles.
Every time we go from our house in Spain (where we're in the middle of nowhere) back to Andorra, I have to brush up on it, but it doesn't take them long at all to settle back into the pattern. I'm not fussed by a woof (although even that doesn't happen much at all now), I just need them to calm down again immediately, and they do that now.
It does mean sitting with a pot of kibble or grated cheese (an excellent choice, since it take more to hunt it out) by your side, but that's not too much of a hardship.If it's grated cheese, you can also take a nibble yourself once in a while
Basically, dogs bark, I say "scatter" (a cue they're already familiar with) and they run to me to snuffle up the treats that are on the floor. At first, I would have a bit of back-and-forth with them running to the door to bark and back for more treats, as they were still on alert. Over time, though, they stopped that and would stay for the food - I would keep doing little sprinkles until they came down from high alert. Eventually, they would let out a small woof and, without me even giving the scatter cue, would run to me for their sprinkles.
Every time we go from our house in Spain (where we're in the middle of nowhere) back to Andorra, I have to brush up on it, but it doesn't take them long at all to settle back into the pattern. I'm not fussed by a woof (although even that doesn't happen much at all now), I just need them to calm down again immediately, and they do that now.
It does mean sitting with a pot of kibble or grated cheese (an excellent choice, since it take more to hunt it out) by your side, but that's not too much of a hardship.If it's grated cheese, you can also take a nibble yourself once in a while
My cheese intake is already at higher than recommended levels, this could be dangerous!If it's grated cheese, you can also take a nibble yourself once in a while
Thanks everyone for the support and suggestions, will try a few and see how we get on. I’m definitely finding this phase one of the most trying to work through and he’s not making it easy. This morning he got spooked by a noise during breakfast and proceeded to gobble the remainder down as fast as he could despite the slow feeder, and then throw it all back up 2 minutes later on the rug, skilfully avoiding the much easier to clean hard floor
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
It's a labrador thingskilfully avoiding the much easier to clean hard floor
Hi again all, was just wondering if anyone had any experience with teaching their dog to ‘speak’ and how they went about it? I’ve been reading that this can be helpful when dealing with barking as you can then follow up with teaching ‘quiet’ but curious if anyone has any practical experience of this.
- Location
- Andorra and Spain
I taught one of my dogs to bark on cue. I did it by knocking on the door and capturing the bark then adding a cue. It had zero impact on his alert barking, as it’s not a “real” bark. When he’s alert barking, it’s because he’s reacting to a potential threat and trying to scare it away. And, since in one hundred percent of cases the thing he’s alerting to does eventually stop/go away, he learns that barking is a successful strategy.
Think about a situation that might make you shout - a potential intruder? Something else? - and then consider what telling you to be quiet would do. Would it calm you down, make you feel better? Even if you stop shouting when told, I’m going to guess that you’re still going to feel the same way towards your trigger, if not more strongly. Would it have any impact on how you reacted the next time you were in the same situation?
So, instead, what we do is try to teach the dog that the noise in the corridor is not, in fact, an axe murderer and instead is a cue that good things are going to happen. By doing this, over time the emotional response to the noise changes from one of “danger! danger!” to “ooooh, cookies!” and so the alert barking diminishes of its own accord.
Think about a situation that might make you shout - a potential intruder? Something else? - and then consider what telling you to be quiet would do. Would it calm you down, make you feel better? Even if you stop shouting when told, I’m going to guess that you’re still going to feel the same way towards your trigger, if not more strongly. Would it have any impact on how you reacted the next time you were in the same situation?
So, instead, what we do is try to teach the dog that the noise in the corridor is not, in fact, an axe murderer and instead is a cue that good things are going to happen. By doing this, over time the emotional response to the noise changes from one of “danger! danger!” to “ooooh, cookies!” and so the alert barking diminishes of its own accord.
Thanks for this, I did have my doubts and your example makes a lot of sense. I will look to strategically place some pots with treats/kibble around the house and see how we get on, hopefully I’ll get my timings right and he will start thinking along the lines of ooooh cookies! before too long
- Location
- Andorra and Spain
If you have the opportunity, you can have someone help you out by knocking on your door when you know they're going to (and not need to come in!) or whatever Neo's trigger(s) is(are). Knock, treat, repeat. He'll get smart to it pretty quickly, however, and know that it's a training session rather than the real deal. They're annoyingly smart like that
You can also practice "run to the treat pot" without the barking trigger. That way you don't have to be right on top of it all the time. Just choose a word that you don't normally use, like "bingo!", and throughout the day just say "bingo!" and run to the pot for a treat scatter. Make it last - not just one piece of food, sprinkle a few bits out so he has to hunt for them, and keep dropping them as he finds them so it lasts a good 30 seconds or more. Do this enough times, make it a fun game and he'll become really responsive to you saying "bingo!" and will understand that the treats come when you get to the pot. You want it to be a promise: "bingo!" ALWAYS means a run to the treat pot and a nice long scatter. Once this is well practiced and he's responding really quickly and with understanding, you can use it when he is triggered to bark. He likely won't respond with his normal energy to start - if at all - but you still run to the pot and sprinkle the treats. Even if it takes him a little while to come down, you should find that over multiple attempts, he will start to follow you faster as he realises the pattern still holds up with the addition of his trigger, and you should find that his barking becomes a whole lot less forceful. Don't expect it to happen in a couple of sessions, it can take a while to change an emotional response, but keep the faith!
You can also practice "run to the treat pot" without the barking trigger. That way you don't have to be right on top of it all the time. Just choose a word that you don't normally use, like "bingo!", and throughout the day just say "bingo!" and run to the pot for a treat scatter. Make it last - not just one piece of food, sprinkle a few bits out so he has to hunt for them, and keep dropping them as he finds them so it lasts a good 30 seconds or more. Do this enough times, make it a fun game and he'll become really responsive to you saying "bingo!" and will understand that the treats come when you get to the pot. You want it to be a promise: "bingo!" ALWAYS means a run to the treat pot and a nice long scatter. Once this is well practiced and he's responding really quickly and with understanding, you can use it when he is triggered to bark. He likely won't respond with his normal energy to start - if at all - but you still run to the pot and sprinkle the treats. Even if it takes him a little while to come down, you should find that over multiple attempts, he will start to follow you faster as he realises the pattern still holds up with the addition of his trigger, and you should find that his barking becomes a whole lot less forceful. Don't expect it to happen in a couple of sessions, it can take a while to change an emotional response, but keep the faith!
just watched Victoria on Its Me Or the Dog and what she did was say "Quiet" very firmly and at the same time did a sort of both hands held in front of her and then separate (like a fan shape) Lots of praise when the dog was quiet and can't remember if she gave a treat. I did this with my vocal whippet and it worked first time!!!! Didn't need a treat and only have to use hand signal if she's excited. The dogs on TV were really noisy in the car so she covered up the windows and placed a curtain separating them in the back. They were quiet because they couldn't see anything. Then she opened up the curtain but closed it the minute the started barking. They eventually gave up barking so she praised them and gave them a treat. This was from the current series being shown on the Pick Channel.
Boogie
Moderator
- Location
- Manchester UK
When Tatze barks at noises in the house or garden I say ‘friends’ and either give her treats or scatter them. I‘ve been doing it a long time now and the word ‘friends’ now has her running to me - of course I go and immediately get the treats even if I don’t have them on me.
